There are lots of reasons to like El Refugio, restaurante del Carmen. It has a bit of a cool countercultural vibe — it started life as a cannabis-based restaurant and hang-out, “La Cañamería” (meaning The Hempery) before their cooking aspirations found that too limiting. The current name derives from the Civil War air raid shelter just opposite, which by the way could do with a bit off official attention as an historical monument. I feel that little bit hipper when eating there, which is a start, and the food is imaginative and excellent value, with the bonus of a short, but nicely assembled, wine list.
See more: John Maher, on "Wines of Valencia".